DRINKING ARAK - A GOURMET RITUAL IN
THE MIDDLE EAST
by Habeeb Salloum
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Called by
the Arabs of the Middle East, ‘the milk of lions’, arak, also
known as arack and arraki, is the national alcoholic drink of
Jordan, Lebanon and Syria. It is given this nick-name because of
its highly potent and lethal character. An aniseed-flavored
colorless spirit which turns to a milky-white liquid after water
and/or ice are added, it is much sought after in the Middle
Eastern lands by those who indulge in intoxicating drinks.
Usually drank before it matures, it is a fiery rough liquor made
for tough palates.
Never drank by itself, arak is always served with mezza (titbits
of food) which could include up to a hundred dishes. A dinner
invitation to friends and colleagues who savor alcoholic drinks
always begins with this gourmet ritual. After a few ounces of
arak and the consuming of a large amount of mezza, the guests
are usually sated. When the main course of the meal is served,
the food is hardly touched. Sipping on arak while consuming
titbits of appetizers is always thought of as the highlight of
the meal.
Various forms of arak, which in Arabic means both sweat and
juice, are popular in all the countries edging the Mediterranean
and parts of the Far East. In the greater Syria area, it is
distilled from fermented grape juice or, at times, sugar and is
considered by the inhabitants to be greatly superior to similar
hard liquors in other countries. The same spirit in the
Balkans and Turkey, called raki - another form of the word arak
- is made from a variety of products like grain, molasses, plums
and potatoes. Other similar drinks are the arak of Iraq - made
from fermented date juice, the zibib of Egypt - a peasant made
drink and Greek ouzo - the most popular aperitif in that
country. Further west, along the northern shores of the
Mediterranean, the Italian anesone, French pastis and Spanish
ojén, served as aperitifs or refreshers, are all sweeter
versions of arak. Also, in the Far East, a comparable liquor
known as arrack, distilled from palm sap or rice, is very
popular.
It is believed that the arak is among the first of these liquors
- apparently developed by the Christian and Jewish minorities in
the Middle East. The art of distillation was initially
discovered in the early Middle Ages by the 10th century Arab
alchemist, Albukassem. However, the Arabs did not use his
invention to produce alcoholic spirits since in Islam, liquor is
forbidden. Hence, his discovery was employed to distil perfume
from flowers and to produce kohl - a women's eye cosmetic where
a black powder is liquefied, then converted to vapor and allowed
to re-solidify.
The Arabs carried the art of distilling kohl to Spain from where
it spread to the remainder of Europe. In these Christian lands,
it took on a much different use - the production of liquor. With
the utilization of this method of producing hard spirits, the
Arabic name al-kohl, which became alcohol, was adopted due to
the similar method the Arabs used in manufacturing this
cosmetic. The words in English relating to the art of
distillation, besides alcohol, like alchemy, alchemist, and
alembic attest to the Arab origin of producing the many
intoxicants found in western lands.
Arak, in the past, was generally of local or village
manufacture, but in the last few decades it is increasingly
being produced in large manufacturing plants. The modern hard
drinks of the West have not overwhelmed this ancient peasant
refreshment. It is still the preferred liquor of those who enjoy
alcoholic drinks in the Middle East.
One has only to sit in the restaurants and night spots of
Jordan, Lebanon and Syria which serve alcoholic drinks to
appreciate the people's attachment to this product of the grape.
On every table, a bottle of arak surrounded by endless plates of
mezza, much like Spanish tapas, is the focal point of the party.
Middle Easterners believe that it is very important to snack
while sipping their drinks. They would never dream of drinking
their arak without nibbling on an endless array of foods. Many
believe that eating cuts down the lethal effect of the `lion's
milk' - to its fans, the epitome of drinks. There is a saying
among the Arab Christians that `anyone who drinks arak becomes
its advocate'. |